What is skin cycling?

If skin cycling is all over your socials you’re not alone. If you have absolutely no idea what skin cycling is, you’re not alone there either.

Let’s break down what skin cycling is, how it’s done, and if you need to bother.

Skin cycling is essentially using your products strategically to maximise results and incorporating rest days, so you don’t overdo it.

The term ‘skin cycling’ was coined by New York dermatologist Whitney Bowe, MD, whose TikTok videos have seen the trend go global.¹

An introductory skin cycling routine is a 4-night cycle.

• Day one: Exfoliation
• Day 2: Use retinoid serum (retinol or retinaldehyde)
• Day 3: Recovery and hydration
• Day 4: Recovery and hydration
• And repeat.

The idea is to prime the skin on day one, by removing the dead skin cells so the active product (retinoid) you’re using can penetrate the skin and work more effectively.

On day 2, you apply your retinoid (vitamin A-based products) which are said to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, even skin tone and help treat break outs.²

While retinoids are often hailed as a ‘fix all’, they can irritate the skin when you first introduce them, so go easy. They can also make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so don’t forget to apply sunscreen every day.

Days 3 and 4 are active-free so the skin can rest, recover and re-hydrate.

The term skin cycling might be new, but dermal therapist Yads Cauchi says many in the industry have been doing it for years, it just didn’t have a name.

The idea of ‘rest days’ is to give the skin barrier time to repair.

“In clinic I tend to see a lot of what goes wrong when people over exfoliate and overuse actives,” says Yads. “It’s so important to have nights off because our skin also needs a lot of hydration and support.”

The real benefit of skin cycling is that it strips your skincare routine back to basics, says Yads.

“Skincare can be really confusing. There are so many active products in the market and too often people buy what they think they need without seeing a professional,” she says. “Many consumers are becoming ‘bathroom chemists’, not realising they’re overdoing it with their skincare.

“Simply knowing the ingredients in your routine and following a structured routine can make a big difference.”

Yads says skin cycling is ideal for people who are just starting out with serums and those with sensitive skin.

“Skin cycling is a way to introduce active ingredients into your routine in a safe and effective way,” she says.

But the 4-day cycle isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach.

“It's not going to be beneficial for people who are seasoned, active users, or people with thickened or mature skin that need more from their active,” says Yads. “I've been using actives for over 10 years. If I went back to using a retinoid and exfoliant once or twice a week, I wouldn't be able to get the results that I'm after with my skincare.”

“You might need to adjust the rest days depending on your skin type, tolerance and the strength of the products you’re using.”

To start a skin cycling routine you’ll need:

• cleanser
• moisturiser
• exfoliant
• retinoid (retinol)
• sunscreen (SPF30+ or above).

Yads recommends seeing a professional to find the right products for your skin type.

“A dermal therapist or dermal clinician will be able to guide you towards a formula, product or strength that's going to be beneficial for your skin,” she says. “Without that, you’re shopping blindly.”

Many clinics offer free consultations or a cash-back on the consult when you buy products.

Yads also recommends a simple and consistent routine of cleansing, moisturising and wearing SPF every morning, plus a double cleanse (to remove any make up and SPF) and moisturising at night.

“I’m big on simplifying routines because I see a lot of issues with clients using too many products and not really knowing what each step does, or why they’re using what they're using.”

And remember, less can create more, as long as you’re consistent.

“Sometimes simplifying your routine is going to get you better results because you're actually using ingredients and products designed for your skin.”